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Barkerwelt is a special Barker version of the welted construction. By adjusting the 'lasting' and 'making' process, the sole is cemented and not stitched. This allows for a closer sole edge and a lighter sole, giving a finer looking, more flexible shoe - while still retaining the advantages of welted shoes.

Softly, Softly
The softness of the leather forepart on cork delivers just the right amount of softness under foot. It also gives the right degree of shock absorption.

Flexibility
The shoe bends naturally, along with the ball of the foot, thanks to the soft leather forepart insole and the slashed outer sole.

Supreme Comfort
The shape and retention properties of a formal Goodyear Welted shoe, combined with Barker's unique flexible forepart, offer supreme comfort.

Keep in shape
The shoe achieves a highly personal footbed, actually taking on the shape of your foot because the upper leather rests on cork.

Breathe in, Breathe out
Your feet will be able to breathe thanks to the properties of the cork and leather which let moisture escape naturally.

In a shoe that is Blake stitched, the sole is attached directly to the upper of the shoe, rather than to an intermediary welt. This makes the sole thinner and more flexible. But, by definition, less robust.

The skin of very young cattle which offers fine grain, suppleness and exceptional durability. A versatile leather that can be used for virtually every type of shoe.

A construction using specialised adhesives ,in place of stitched welts, to bond the upper parts and soles, thus achieving lightness and flexibility.

A rich shine leather, which requires little polishing

Rubber sole unit

Known for its non-porosity, density, and good wearing characteristics, Cordovan leather is used in the manufacture of fine shoes. The name derives from C�rdoba, Spain, where the leather was first produced.
A soft, fine-grained, coloured leather produced mainly from the shell of a horse butt.

Crockett and Jones Cordovan Shoes

Rubber sole unit

Boot or shoe with the eyelet tabs stitched on the outside.

After drying out the leather after tanning the leather is dressed.

This could involve:
1. Completely softening the leather (taking out any area of hardness that may be left in). This is achieved by hand or machine process called staking, in which the leather is flexed and pulled.
2. Final colouring.
3. Buffing up the flesh side with abrasives to produce a nap finish (suede).
4. Rolling and glazing to produce a high gloss by flattening out and smoothing the grain surface (grain leather).
5. Pigmenting the leather to cover outstanding imperfections.
6. Correcting grain side leather by abrading the grain surface to give a more uniform and less marked appearance.
7. Patented polyurethane finishes which produce easy care - 'wipe clean' and 'wet look' leathers.

With reference to shoe fittings or widths of the manufacturers on our website
C or D narrow
E or Ex slightly more narrow than the average
5 or F average
Fx slightly wider than the average
6 or G wide
GX slightly wider still
H extra wide

Underfoot system with Poron® to reduce shock and odour. Leather soles with flexible, slip-resistant rubber inserts. Comfortable straight from the box.

View Sanders Flexwelt Shoes

Skins where only the hair has been removed, leaving the natural surface grain unchanged.

Dynamic gel technology that provides a unique shock absorber for feet.

Gelactiv are rightly known as 'shock absorbers for feet' - they incorporate pliable, soothing, supportive gel to cushion every step.

The Gelactiv reduces Heel impact during the first part of the step it then distributes pressure equally along the length of the foot.

A traditional method of manufacturing, which provides a shoe that will give comfort, excellent shape retention, water resistance and repairable properties.
Goodyear welted, the essence of this construction is that the upper is shaped over the last and secured by sewing a strip of leather or 'welt' to the upper and inner sole. The process is then completed by attaching a sole to the welt.

The skin of young goats, which offers fine grain and suppleness, predominantly used for casual and lightweight shoes.

Leather is a natural product. Like real wood and wool it has a life of its own with a distinctive quality look. Leather is both protective and uniquely comfortable.

Leather shoes retain their shape and grow old gracefully. Properly maintained, like good wine, they improve with age.

Leather is made from the skin or hide of any reptile animal or bird by a process called tanning. This process preserves the skin or hide, which would otherwise decay.


A most important characteristic of leather as far as the shoe trade is concerned is that it has a fibrous structure, which allows it to transmit water vapour (i.e. perspiration). Leather breathes and controls the foot's temperature, permeating out the foot's moisture.

The leather industry normally refers to a hide as coming from a large animal (such as a cow, elephant, buffalo) and it is necessary to cut and divide a hide in order to assist subsequent processing.

A skin can come from four sources:-

• Small or young animals (e.g. calf, sheep, goat, pig).
• Reptiles (e.g. snake, crocodile, lizard)
• Animals or mammals, where the hair is left on as a feature, such as calf, pony, reindeer, or antelope.
• Birds (such as ostrich).

• The preparation and tanning of the hides and skins
• The procss of finishing the leather.

This construction was developed from the methods used by North American Indians. A moccasin construction produces a very light, flexible and comfortable shoe with a distinctive appearance.

A 'bag' of leather is formed by hand stitching an apron to a vamp. This bag is dampened and then forced on to the last to form the shape of the shoe. The sole is then stitched or glued to the formed upper part. Because the soft leather goes round the foot, forming a flexible and adaptable 'bag' a moccasin is a exceptionally comfortable.

Search For Moccasins

Skins, normally from lambs, which are remarkably soft and supple; primarily used for shoes where comfort is the key.

Properly styled to conform to the natural shape of the foot. All Naturform styles feature a contoured footbed insole - soft, shock absorbing and offering support during the everyday movements of feet.

Norwegian Construction

This technique, originally used for mountain boots, has made it the world leader. It offers many advantages :

- Two rows of stitching that steadfastly hold together the leather upper, the welt and the sole guarantee that the shoes will be waterproof.
- A technique that assures comfort and strength.
- A cork filling between the leather insole and the sole to assure maximum comfort and breathability.
- The possibility of resoling permits a long life for the shoes.

Nubuck is a grain leather that has been slightly brushed on the surface to create a very fine velvet-like appearance.

A superior brushing technique than that which is used for suede, the texture of Nubuck is finer than suede because the natural grain pattern is left intact.

Shoe with the quarters stitched under the vamp.

Polyurethane sole which is lightweight, flexible, hard wearing and has shock-absorbing qualities.

Fine grain leather is specially treated with polyurethane to create an exceptionally gloss finish, especially suitable for evening wear. Patent leather can also be used in conjunction with other leather to produce eye catching results.

Here are some tips on how to get the most from your shoes through good shoe care.

• General Advice

On the first few occasions wear your new shoes in dry conditions.
Thereafter, try to avoid wearing the same shoes on successive days. It prolongs their life and helps to keep them smart and comfortable. Keep them on shoe-trees whenever you can and always use a shoe horn.


• Wet Shoes

Never dry wet shoes near fires, radiators or hot pipes. Slow natural drying at normal room temperature is best. The moisture absorbed by the leather during wear needs at least 24 hours to evaporate naturally. Stuffing with newspaper will help to absorb the moisture and reframe the shoe.


• Cleaning

Good calf, grain and kid leathers deserve good treatment. Always clean regularly with a brush or damp cloth to remove all traces of dirt before applying a good quality shoe cream or polish of the correct colour.


• Suede Shoes

After removing all dirt when dry, brush up the nap using a rubber or stiff bristled suede brush.
Stains may be carefully removed with a proprietary solvent cleaner.
Bald patches can be restored with fine sand paper.


• Nubuck Leather Shoes

Should be wiped with a cloth dipped in slightly soapy warm water.


• Patent Leather

Clean with a damp cloth or use a good quality proprietary patent leather spray.

The main processes used in the manufacturing of shoes:-

1. Clicking

This is a process where the skins, hides or man-made materials are cut into the shoe upper sections.


2. Closing

To produce an upper, the various upper sections are stitched together.


3. Bottom Stock Preparation

This is where the process of cutting and preparing bottom components (such as soles and insoles) takes place.


4. Lasting

Gathering and shaping the assembled uppers on the last and fixing the upper on to the insole.


5. Making

A number of processes by which heels and soles are attached to the lasted shoe.


6. Finishing

Where the process of improving the durability and appearance of the shoe by various
operations such as bottom securing and edge trimming.

Where all the cosmetic operations take place, such as upper cleaning and dressing, insertion of socks, final inspection and boxing.

Here are some examples of the key shoe styles:-
(click on the names to link to images of the shoes)

Brogue

Semi Brogue

Derby / Gibson

Monk / Derby

Oxford


To view a range of examples of each shoe type, select the shoe type you would like to see from the drop-down menu on our search facility.

Styles of Goodyear Welted Soles:

(click for images)

Commando

Dainite

Ridgeway

Leather Channelled

Leather stitched aloft

A storm welt is a band of leather which is sewn into the interface between the boot upper and the sole.
It helps to keep water from getting into the area where the upper meets the sole and soaking into the footwear.

Leather with a buffed underside, giving an attractive textured appearance.

Special footwear range incorporating the total windproof and waterproof Sympatex membrane.
Guaranteed waterproof, with a high level of breathability, it allows feet to remain comfortable and dry throughout the day. Totally Halogen free and solvent-free, it is the most eco-friendly waterproof membrane.
Click on the image to view a large version.

A hide or a skin Is converted into leather by a chemical process known as tanning

The two most widely used tanning methods are :-

• Vegetable Tannage

Use is made of water containing natural tanning extracted from plant leaves, barks, etc to produce the tanning liquor. The most commonly used is the mimosa tanning from the wattle tree


Vegetable tanning is quite a lengthy process producing relatively dense, firm or solid leather for use in shoe sole leathers, bags, lining leathers and belts.


• Mineral Tannage

This can be divided into full chrome tanned, semi chrome tanned and chrome re-tanned.
The priorities in tanning to produce the required finished leather are :


• Choice of hide or skin.


• Choice of the method of tannage.


• Preparation of the tanning liquors.


• Careful control of the time, temperature and strength of the liquor into which the hide or
  skin is immersed.


• Choice or type of the finished look required.


• Mineral Tannage (Chrome Tanned)

Use is made of mineral salts, such as Chromium Sulphate, to produce a tanning liquor. This process takes 24 hours and initially gives the leather a pale duck egg blue colour. The type of leather produced is soft or resilient , used for shoe upper leather, glove and soft sole leathers (for example, ladies shoes or slipper soles) to give flexibility.

Water resistant hard-wearing leather.

Example of Zug Grain